No Start after sitting for 5 years

[vwtopia]

Hello, My name is Kevin and I am glad to have found this website. I recently purchased a 2003 Beetle that has been in storage for 5 years. It will run for a few seconds on starter fluid so I believe it is something with the fuel delivery. I never hear the fuel pump run. I am wondering if my problem is with the security system? I have looked over this site and I do not have the same type of immoblizer as mentioned here. Mine is a red dongle that is on the key chain. Could this be causing my fuel pump problem? I am just starting to look into the problem but wanted to get registered on this site and also introduce myself. I currently own several other aircooled VW's, (5 buses and 3 beetles) so I am familiar with the older VW's. any help would be appreciated, Thanks

[Red1600i]

If you turn on ignition the fuel pump is activated for 1 second. You can hear it usually, its pretty loud.

If not... fuse, relay, key, immo... hmmm, you could test the relay and activate it manually by a wire bridge?

[vwtopia]

I found out that the fuel pump is not working. The relay is working as I put a test light on the end by the pump and it lite up for about a second. I have removed the fuel pump and taken it all apart. (I will write up a separate post for repairing the fuel pump.) I have the pump working now but as I was putting it all back together I cracked the plastic so am currently gluing it. Once I have it all back together and confirmed working I will make a new post.

[cab63]

Can you share how you fixed the pump inside?
First post, and as per usual it's someone with a problem!……..had Mexican Beetles for years and have always used the site, but now need some help
I have not run my mexibug for a year, it has always been brilliant at starting even after laid up for a period, but this time it refused to start.
The main issue was the fuel went stale. Could not hear the fuel pump priming, so hard wired it with another connector, direct to a battery, and all it does is 'click'
Took it apart and the bottom inside was covered in a grey chewing gum substance, which I suppose is the additive from unleaded fuel.
Looked at the key vanes underneath, and they were very hard to turn with a small screwdriver. Got some carb cleaner, and slowly eased them around, but they get to about 320 degrees of turning and then just stop solid, will turn the opposite way, and it does exactly the same. I am assuming that something has broken off inside the actual motor, say the commutator, and is jamming the movement?
Can you take the metal pump apart itself?
A new pump from VE Heritage is over £280!!
I see on ebay there is a firm called HERKO that does the same complete pump, but not sure of the quality, has anyone tried one.
also on the forum I see a topic http://www.1600i.de/1600i-elektronik/be ... pumpe.html which mentions a possible replace internal pump for the plastic housing as E2T 7.21287. Anyone know where you can get this from as can not find it listed anywhere and do not know if someone has tried this pump as an alternative.
I may try just standard electric pump running 2.5/3.0 bar, and just run the both return pipes back to the tank? Anyone tried that, there has to be an easy alternative to either a chinese copy part or a damm expensive replacement?
These internal pumps are not going to be around for much longer, especially with the plastic cracking and seals failing for the outer cover, anyone tried something different fuel pump wise??
regards
Ian

[vwtopia]

Ian,
I don't think you can take the metal pump apart, I never tried that. One thing I was told and have had success with is to hit the metal pump with a piece of wood like a 2x4. You need to hit it pretty hard several times but not hard enough to dent it. I put the pump in one hand and hit it with the wood in the other. I have has success with other VW pumps with this method also. Since the pump isn't working anyway, I figured I had nothing to loose. I have had to do this several times to get the pump to work but by hitting it you are breaking it free from the crud that is in it. It might work, it might not, but it's worth a try. My pump finally quit and I could not get it to work again so I bought a new one. When I first had the problem the pumps were about $400 US, when I had to replace it it was less than $200. Have you contacted Antonio? If not see what he can do for you his email is partsvw@outlook.com You can see more info about him at http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... p?id=84077

[cab63]

Hi
thanks for the update.
In the meantime, I managed to do a bit more research, and make a lot of phone calls.
I also persevered, and kept putting 'Marvel Mystery Oil' via a syringe, into the tooth drive, and kept rotating the teeth with a flat bladed watch makers screwdriver. It still kept sticking around 320 degrees, at which point I thought 'sod it' and really put some effort into the screwdriver, either that was going to break, or something was going move. THE TEETH MOVED!, but again very sticky, so back to the mystery oil, and the screwdriver………..an hour later it freed a bit more. Tried to direct feed the voltage supply, and reversed the polarity, just a click. Went back to turning it by hand with the oil in again, and 30 minutes. Hooked up the direct feed, 'click' reversed the polarity, click, click, wirrrrrrrrrrrr……it started running!
Then got a big bowl of Millers 10W XD ring free, which is very thin oil, and let it run for 15 minutes in that to lubricate it all. Let it soak in that overnight, and ran it again in the morning. Then flushed it through running in neat petrol, and runs a treat!!!
In between all these, made phone calls to Pierburg, there is a replacement pump, part number 7.22042.51.0, which supersedes part number 7.22042.01.0 see below

http://www.pierburg-service.de/ximages/ ... en_web.pdf

Now this is standard fitment to a MKII Golf Gti, and Seat, see the spec sheet it has the list of cars fitted to.
Not only that it appears they ran a similar 'swirl pot' system that the pump was located in, which has return feeds, was thinking the vent one, could be 'T' off the return in to the tank as well???.
This part is still available in genuine stock, so although square, could fit in the front bullhead ?

Genuine VW part numbers against Pierburg, are as follows

Pierburg 7.22042.01.0 = VW 191-906-090

Pierburg 7.22042.51.0 = VW 191-906-091E

The only difference in 7.22042.51.0 which Pierburg say can be used as a replacement (it is 3 Bar and has the correct flow rate) is the swage line, that holds the top gasket in place seems to be lower, I take it you can raise the pump at the base somehow, to keep a good seal all round??

Thought I would publish this here for info of all

Ian

[cab63]

this is what the Pierburg pump should look like
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181510545434? ... EBIDX%3AIT